Line sharpness
A Moderate line, and
what it asks of a cut.
Moderate means a frame that commits to neither pole, with edges that are neither cut nor rounded. It is read separately from your body shape, because the two decide different things and a cut needs both.
- One of three levels
- Read from 5 weighted signals
- 125+ cuts scored
Line sharpness
- Sharp
- Moderate
- Soft
What it means
A moderate line is about edges, not size.
Sharpness is one question: do the edges of your frame read angular or rounded? It is not about size, and it is not about where your width sits. Those are your shape, and they are answered separately.
- A shoulder that is neither square nor obviously sloped.
- Bone that is present without being the first thing you notice.
- Features that read even rather than angular or soft.
How we read it
Five readings, weighted. Not one glance at a photo.
- Bone structure, from your photos
- Your shoulder and hip answer
- The line of your shoulder, from your photos
- Facial features, from your photos
- Your waist answer
Your own answers carry 33% of the reading. Where a photo and an answer disagree, the answer wins: a badly lit picture should not decide anything about you.
In a garment
Three things change with your line: structure, the shoulder, and how the fabric behaves.
Length, rise and how much room a piece needs are not on that list. They follow your shape, which is the other half of the reading and a different page.
What a moderate line asks for
- Moderate construction. Structure that is there without announcing itself.
- A natural shoulder, neither built up nor dropped.
- Fabric with body that still moves. A mid-weight knit, a soft twill.
- Detail in proportion, which for this level means not much of it.
What works against it
- Both extremes, and this is the one level where that is the whole answer: a rigidly architectural piece reads as costume, a fully fluid one reads as unmade.
For example
Pieces that speak a moderate line.
Read these as the language, not as a shopping list. Every one of them matches this line and any one of them can still be wrong for you, because your shape has not been read yet.
Women
- fitted teeShirts and tops
- hoodieSweaters
- crew-neck knitSweaters
- oversized knitSweaters
- quilted pufferJackets and layers
- fitted ribbed tank topShirts and tops
Men
- heavy teeShirts and tops
- oxford shirtShirts and tops
- regular shirtShirts and tops
- hoodieSweaters
- crew-neck knitSweaters
- quilted pufferJackets and layers
Your shape decides the rest.
A moderate line tells us how a garment should be built. Where the volume goes, how long it runs and how much room it needs comes from your shape, and the verdict comes from the pair.
The ten shapes
FAQ
Moderate line questions.
Moderate means a frame that commits to neither pole, with edges that are neither cut nor rounded. The quick check is the shoulder: stand square to a mirror and look at where the shoulder ends. A corner you could draw with a ruler is the sharp end, a curve that slopes away is the soft end, and most people are somewhere between the two. The reason we measure it rather than ask you is that this is the hardest thing on your own body to see honestly.
No, and the difference is the point. Your shape says where the width sits: shoulders, waist, hips. Sharpness says whether the edges of your frame read angular or rounded. They move independently, so two people can both be a Pear and want completely different jackets over identical trousers. A recommendation needs both readings, which is why neither page prints a list of cuts on its own.
No. A Kibbe type bundles five things into one label: vertical line, bone scale, flesh, curve and angularity. Four of those are what a body shape already tells you, so naming a Kibbe type on top of a shape mostly repeats the shape and buries the one fact that is new. We separate them instead: the shape, then the sharpness. The underlying method is the same body of work; the labels are split so each one says one thing.
Barely. Weight moves your shape and can soften how the frame reads at the edges, but bone structure, the line of your shoulder and the geometry of your face are not going anywhere. Of the two readings, this is the stable one, which is also why it is worth knowing.
Mostly the upper half, and mostly three things: how much structure a garment holds, what happens at the shoulder, and how the fabric behaves. Lengths, rise and how much room a piece needs answer to your shape instead. That is why the examples on this page are shirts, knits and jackets rather than trousers, and why none of them is a recommendation until your shape is read alongside your moderate line.
Dress by the data
Ten minutes now, or another year of guessing in fitting rooms.